TORONTO: You can get anything you want

Weekend brunches generally fall into two categories: the tiny, uber-popular spots that are lined up out the door, and the places that take reservations where you can linger.

Alice’s Restaurant is the latter. It’s a bistro in Little Italy, more family-style than flash, and more hearty than trendy. It aims to please with a children’s menu and a note that the kitchen is more than happy to work around any dietary limitations including vegan and macrobiotic needs (!) or allergies.

Cue Arlo Guthrie. You really can get anything you want at Alice’s Restaurant — and at reasonable prices.

Its signature brunch attraction are scones. A basket of three ($3) comes with butter and homemade strawberry jam.

Now, I hate scones. And so does Kevin (my soon-to-be brother-in-law) but we were gobbling them up. They were flaky and light and really tasty even though they’re served cold.

The short brunch menu is not your eggs and bacon variety. In fact, there’s no bacon on the menu at all. (Gasp!)

But my pan-seared trout ($12) was dead on. It’s what I like to call “I win!” — when what I’ve ordered is the best dish at the table.

The trout was perfect with crispy skin and the fish moist and cooked just so, on top of some greens. I loved the warm potato salad that came with it, lightly dressed with capers and tiny pieces of pickles.

Kevin’s huevos rancheros ($11) were solid, but nothing remarkable: two poached eggs on corn tortilla (made in-house) with salsa, guacamole, black beans and sour cream.

We had a bit of an issue with Gigi’s steak and egg (yes, just one egg). She ordered it rare and it came out well done, so we had to send it back. However, the staff were extremely apologetic and came out three times to give us the progress on the second go-around. They also sent out a complimentary basket of scones.

The retry was much better, a small but quality New York strip done rare, with an egg sunny side up, greens, and potato hash.

They ended up taking the steak and egg ($14) off the bill, which I thought was a very gracious gesture, and left us feeling very well taken care of. This is a family-friendly, neighbourhood spot that obviously cares about making sure customers leave feeling satisfied.

Alice’s Restaurant, 856 College St. Toronto, (416) 534-7500. Open for dinner Tues. to Sun. 5–9 p.m., brunch weekends 11 a.m. - 3 p.m. Menu here.

 

ONIGIRI: Japanese-style snacking

Onigiri is basically a rice ball, wrapped in seaweed with a filling of some kind. It’s an extremely popular snack in Japan. They can be homemade and taken for picnics, school lunches etc. but they’re now available in all sorts of flavours in most convenience stores there.

Consider it the taquito of the 7-Eleven or the soggy sandwiches from your local gas station. Except onigiri isn’t gross.

Onigiri literally means “taking hold of something with your hands.”

There are handy instructions on how to put your onigiri together: open cellophane, move rice ball onto one edge of the seawood, roll it together and voilà!

It’s perfect traveling food. I grabbed two onigiri for $3 before getting on a flight. The spicy tuna was canned tuna with that mayo-type dressing served on spicy tuna sushi.

The other one, pickled vegetable, was nice and crunchy with turnip, bracken, and bamboo shoots.

I’ve only seen onigiri in Japanese food stores in Toronto — Sanko carries salmon, okra and pickled plum (umeboshi) flavours as well — but I’m sure they’re available elsewhere in Canada. Or you could try making them yourself.

Sanko Trading Co., 730 Queen St. West, Toronto, (416) 703-4550. Website here.

 

TORONTO: Goodbye, Susur

I thought it was an April Fool’s joke, but alas Susur Lee, one of my favourite chefs, is leaving Toronto for New York. He’ll be closing his self-titled Susur on May 31 but the more casual Lee next door will remain open.

Toronto Life reports that Susur will be opening a restaurant in a boutique hotel in Manhattan’s Lower East Side this fall, but will cook at Lee during the times he’s back in Toronto.

“A chef has to do new things, have new adventures,” Susur told the magazine.

I have fond, fond memories of my meals at Susur. Best wishes to the chef.

Susur, 601 King St. West, Toronto, (416) 603-2205.
Lee, 603 King St. West, Toronto, (416) 504-7867.

 

Flying in a dream

Dear Mr. Porter,

I know you’re not a real person, but the raccoon mascot for Porter Airlines. Nonetheless, I thought you would like to know about how much I love your company.

Thank you for having a simple yet stylish website that doesn’t freeze up and offers reasonable domestic fares around Toronto, Montreal, Ottawa and now New York, Halifax and Quebec City.

Thanks for offering to hang up my coat when I boarded the plane, even as an economy-fare passenger. The smiling attendant was just lovely in a sharp suit, her hair in a neat bun, and makeup from this decade, unlike some of my other air travels.

Kudos for designing a little cup holder on the back of the tray at my seat so I didn’t have to juggle a blazingly hot cup of coffee while trying to stash my (admittedly large) purse and laptop bag.

THANK YOU for the complimentary lunchbox with half a pastrami sandwich on marble rye with mayo, mustard, green leaf lettuce, and swiss cheese; a mini Babybel and crackers, and wetnap. Even the skinny model girl down the row ate her cheese. I’m glad you could provide her some protein.

And hey, thanks for serving my club soda in a real glass so I felt all classy, and not like I was at some six-year-old’s birthday party.

You have my gratitude for making air travel something I can enjoy rather than dread. I can’t wait until you expand your top-notch service and thoughtful air details to western Canada.

Please hurry.

Click here for more info on Porter Airlines.

 

TORONTO: Mangia!

Terroni has been open on Queen West since 1992, first selling imported Italian supplies and mortadella, and then expanding into pizzas and pasta. Now there are two other locations in Toronto and one in Los Angeles. There’s no secret behind its success, just tasty traditional southern Italian food at reasonable prices.

We were famished at about 9 p.m. on a Sunday night, which turned out to be a perfect time for us to visit Terroni since it’s always packed in the evening.

The three of us sat at one end of a long heavy wooden table near the front, while a couple sat on the other end. It didn’t feel weird since we weren’t squashed elbow to elbow. I love the big mirrors on the wall and the warm glow to everything, including the service.

We shared the calamari alla griglia ($11.95) to start, large pieces of squid that were lightly grilled and served on top of mixed greens with tomatoes. It’s so nice to have squid that hasn’t been drenched in batter, and cooked so you can actually taste it.

Terroni’s dinner-plate sized, thin-crust pizzas are uncut and incredibly delicious. Their tomato base is made with hand-picked San Marzano tomatoes which are dictated by strict rules in order to carry the label.

Kevin got a Santo Stefano ($15.95) with prosciutto, arugula and buffalo milk mozzarella. I devoured my margherita ($11.95). It’s only tomato, basil and mozzarella but it was glorious.

Gigi’s linguine al frutti di mare ($16.95) featured al dente, homemade linguine with fresh mussels, clams, shrimp, calamari, scallops, in a light tomato sauce.

It was exactly what we needed on a cold, hungry, late night.

Terroni, 720 Queen St. West, Toronto, (416) 504-0320. Open 9 a.m.-11 p.m. daily. No reservations taken. Website here and menu here.

 

TORONTO: Where the boys are

Before Toronto’s smoking ban, Smokeless Joe was one of the few havens of clean air in the city. I wish I had known about it when I lived there. Not only for the air, or the 200+ different kinds of beer, but because this prime guy territory.

I don’t mean the sports-bar type variety, or the Hooters-type patrons. I mean, quality, gainfully employed, decent-looking men in their 20s to 30s, relaxing after work. You see where I’m going, single girls of Toronto?

Of course, I’m happily engaged now, so I was entirely focused on the bar’s products: beer.

Smokeless Joe’s beer menu is several pages of photocopied paper, listed alphabetically by country.

“I wonder if anyone gets to Poland,” wise Karen mused, as she flipped through it.

And so, she ordered a Zywiec lager. I had a sip and found it very light and malty. It reminded me of the watery Asian beers like Tsingtao.

I got my favourite Raspberry Wheat Ale, brewed by an Ontario microbrewery called KLB (Kawartha Lakes Brewery). Raspberry beer. Yes, it’s fruity. And delicious. One of my all-time favourites. I haven’t found it outside of Ontario but Alberta’s Brewsters makes a similar one and Moncton’s Pump House Brewery does a blueberry beer — served with fresh blueberries floating on the top.

The staff here are super nice and ready to suggest beers if you find the choices overwhelming.

I wanted to try Leffe Brune, which was recommended to me a while ago, but they were out. Instead, I was recommended a St. Paul Special from Belgium. It was right up my alley, a red-brown beer with caramel overtones and a slightly bitter kick at the end.

Smokeless Joe is smaller than a shoebox, so seats are at a premium, but all the better to sidle up to other patrons. Right, ladies? (For the record, we were sitting, and not sidling up to anyone.)

Smokeless Joe, 125 John St., Toronto (416) 728-4503.

 

TORONTO: A thing of beauty

When I say Japanese food, you probably think sushi or teriyaki. It’s both the good and the bad of sushi’s popularity that you can now get it anywhere from your corner store to the mall. But as the Globe and Mail’s restaurant reviewer Joanne Kates wrote: “Japanese food is one of the world’s most refined and complex cuisines, acutely sensitive to seasonal changes, and full of symbolism and metaphor.”

That’s exactly what Kaiseki-Sakura is all about. It’s like hearing a symphony orchestra for the first time, the sounds of each instrument swirling around to enchant you in your seat, layering note upon note to create something unpredictably beautiful.

Kaiseki literally means “stone in the stomach” and refers to 16th-century Buddhist monks tucking hot stones wrapped into towels in to their robes to ward off hunger during their morning and afternoon prayers. It came to refer to the simple vegetarian meal served after a tea ceremony.

Today, it is an art form that balances taste, texture and appearance using local, fresh ingredients to showcase the flavours and colours of each season.

Let us be clear, Kaiseki-Sakura is not a sushi joint even though its location across from a Pizza Pizza outlet at Church and Wellesley can be misleading.

There is an à la carte menu but to truly savour the chef’s art, choose an omakase tasting menu which changes every season. Five courses is $60, six $80 and seven $100. We opted for the six-course menu with two of us also ordering the accompanying sake pairings ($30).

The chef sends out an amuse-bouche of tofu made of chesnut paste with persimmon and pomegranate — and we know this is going to be truly unique. The bartender pairs that with a refreshing lychee-flavoured sake.

Our tasting begins with four deceivingly tiny teapots, filled with dashi stock with mitsuba herb (wild Japanese parsley), matsutake mushrooms and conger eel. Our server explains to flip the cup off the top of the teapot, pour the soup, and then squeeze some key lime into it. It’s delicate and fragrant — and plentiful, filling our cups more than half a dozen times. Raised pinky finger optional.

The summer nights fading into fall evenings arrives on our table with a sashimi plate decorated with orange sweet-potato maple leaves and curled ribbons of daikon and red and yellow beets. Succulent seared lobster is drizzled with garlic oil and ponzu sauce, while an exquisite piece of sea bass is wrapped in konbu (edible kelp).

The raw fish is escorted by a fresh piece of wasabi root and a mini-grater. This is nothing like the green mound of wasabi paste most of us are used to. Fresh, grated wasabi does not have elicit that sinus-singeing numbness, but gives off a milder snap of hot and sharp.

A cucumber sake drink is paired with the sashimi but after that, I lose track, trying to keep up with all the new flavours I’m experiencing.

A bounty of fall colours plays out in our main course. Paper-thin slices of fried sweet potato are cut into the shapes of leaves, with the tips of some even fading from orange to yellow. The plate had so many elements we had to ask our serve to repeat some of the ingredients. As much as I was able to scribble down, there was:

• pheasant-wrapped pumpkin
• scallop dumpling with cream cheese
• grilled salmon
• sweet potato dumpling
• something with uni (sea urchin roe)
• egg yolk marinated in miso paste.

A short glass of plum wine gelatin serves as part palate-cleanser, part tongue-tingler. The wine’s kick is balanced with the layered sweetness of cherry tomatoes, baby mistuba herb and diced Asian pear.

Next comes delicious slices of duck breast with fig tempura and eggplant with chrysanthemum. The duck is full of flavour but the fig tempura is utterly enchanting, the soft sweet fruit played up with the crunchy batter. I kept eying Kevin’s piece but he ate it too quickly and Gigi’s bowl was out of my reach. Darn.

The chef then sends out a ridiculously tender hunk of beef tongue in red miso sauce and French baguette to soak up the sauce. This wasn’t the prettiest dish but it was delicious.

Any worries we had about the ability of the delicate dishes to fill our stomachs accustomed to North American portions vanishes because suddenly we are full. Our eyes and our tummies filled with art.

A final sweet note plays with a dessert plate of red bean papaya mint pie, green tea mousse and black sesame cookie.

Maestro Daisuke Izutsu, former chef to the Japanese consul-general, comes out of the kitchen to bid us farewell. It’s nice to meet the person behind the masterpieces.

EnRoute magazine just named Kaiseki-Sakura one of the next 20 restaurants of 2007. This is definitely a place for special occasions or special guests — unless of course, you’re independently wealthy, have a generous corporate account, or your mother feels like picking up the tab. (Thanks, Mom!)

Kaiseki-Sakura, 556 Church St., Toronto, (416) 923-1010. Dinner only, closed Tuesdays and holidays. Hours and more info here.

 

TORONTO: I saw Sloan!

I took the streetcar down Dundas Street West keeping my eye out among the storefronts in Little Portugal for Saving Grace. On a weekend, you can’t miss it because there’s a lineup out the door.

It’s tiny, seating maybe 25 and that’s including bar stools at a counter. Here’s the most important thing: there’s a clipboard hanging inside, next to the front door, where you add your name and how many in your group. Otherwise, you’re just standing outside for no reason.

While I was waiting, Chris Murphy the lead singer from Sloan walked by. Sauntered really. A Sunday saunter. Ben said he lives in the neighbourhood. This has nothing to do with my brunch experience. I just wanted to say I saw him and I like Sloan, especially this song.

After about 20 minutes, Ben and I snagged a little table and read the day’s choices off the big blackboard menu. I forgot to take notes so I’m going by my month-long memory.

I got poached eggs in a vegetable ratatouille which came under a liberal mound of goat cheese with crusty baguette, potatoes and a side of sausage (my addition) which I really didn’t need.

Ben got eggs with white beans, chorizo and fennel. I think people come to Saving Grace for a change from the ho-hum bacon and eggs, so in that vein it definitely fits the bill. Most plates are between $7 and $10.

Because Ben and I are gluttons, we ordered the waffles with blackberries and lemon ricotta cream for brunch dessert. That was the most memorable dish for me. Fresh and delicious. And big.

Saving Grace makes me feel like I live around the corner and just dragged myself by for a cup of coffee and some filling breakfast. Perhaps passing the arts section of the weekend Globe over to my neighbour from Sloan. You know, just hanging out.

Saving Grace, 907 Dundas St. West, Toronto, (416) 703-7368. Closed Wednesdays.
Open Mon-Fri 9 a.m.-3 p.m., weekends 10 a.m.-3 p.m.

 

TORONTO: Spicy Szechuan bargain

I don’t have any brothers but I have Ben. Our parents have been friends since before we were fetuses, so we spent a lot of holidays and meals together. Ben used to lock me into a closet, go in for dinner and tell everyone I wasn’t hungry. He liked to make me cry a lot.

Of course, that’s all behind us now. I hardly even remember getting pounded relentlessly by couch cushions until I couldn’t stand up amid a blur of tears.

But we’re too old to fight anymore. We just get together and eat in peace now.

When I requested something tasty and cheap, Ben suggested the curiously named Pals WT International, a hole-in-the-wall I had walked past hundreds of times on College but never tried.

Pals serves mostly spicy Szechuan and some northern Chinese. It’s a no-frills family business, one with a toddler in a corner playpen and Chinese soaps playing on the television.

Cantonese-speaking Ben found Pals through some Mandarin-speaking friends, so between simple English and a lot of pointing at the menu we got about eight dishes for nine people.

The spicy Szechuan green beans and the double-fried garlic pork are mouth-watering must-haves.

We also got a big pot of flaky white fish done with peppercorn and chili peppers and big knotted ribbons of sea kelp. I forget some of the other dishes but I vaguely remember some beef with broccoli and pork slices with thin flour pancakes.

Oh wait and the dessert! I’m not sure about the Chinese lineage of this but we had these deep-fried battered apple slices that came with a bowl of cold water. Once you dipped your piping hot apple slice into the cold water, it became this instant candied apple slice. Oh my, it was good.

Or as my sister wrote to remind me: “Super hot and tasty, like nuggets of deep-fried candy apple yumminess - i want some NOW!”

Pals appears to do a lot of take-out business but this is a great place for a group of friends averse to bland food. Plus they’ll thank you when the bill comes. Our total came out to about $13 per person with tax and tip included. It’s also nice to have dinner and not be locked in a closet.

Pals Wt International, 376 College St., Toronto, (416) 929-1212.

 

TORONTO: Tapas times two

I had two terrific dinners in Toronto at what might be loosely called tapas restaurants. Of course, tapas is technically a bunch of small Spanish appetizers — preferably consumed in Spain — but now I think it’s become really any plates designed to be shared — preferably with people you like.

Karen, my wise friend who just moved back from Africa, suggested we try Tomi-Kro, a funky spot in Leslieville.

Despite having a reservation, we were seated at a table where my chair was literally in the middle of an arched walkway. We switched to one table over after politely asking, but we noticed no other couple arrived after us — so why were we seated in the crappy spot in the first place? They obviously weren’t saving the table we ended up at for anyone. Sigh. I never understand that. (And no, we weren’t dressed bad or smelled funny.)

I can’t even say it was snobbery because the service was fine. Hardly warm, but fine.

Now, with that out of the way, let me say the food itself was great. The menu is a mixture of tapas and à la carte main dishes.

We started with tempura lobster maki balls ($10), a total twist on well, a lot of things. It was a sushi roll full of chunks of lobster and mango and then lightly battered and deep-fried like tempura resulting in a ball that was then cut in half. It doesn’t sound like a good idea but it made our taste buds very happy. I enjoyed the neatness of it because it didn’t fall apart like regular maki.

We moved on to a hunky filet of beef ($22) on wasabi mashed potatoes with gorgonzola, carmelized onions and jus. It was exquisite.

But the two sides we ordered left the biggest impression. Roasted beets with goat cheese, balsamic vinegar and pistachios came with an addictive garlicky sauce that made it even harder to not gobble up immediately. And finally a well-made risotto ($6) but done here by way of the East, with slender pieces of shiitake mushroom and dashi, a distinctive Japanese soup stock.

We were happy, full girls.

Carrying on that theme a few nights later, Allison picked Foxley in now-hip Parkdale to meet up for dinner. It’s a tiny spot — 40 seats tops in a long narrow setup — on Ossington between Queen West and Dundas. It too does a Latin meets Asian menu which changes daily, but it’s unassuming, fun and utterly delicious. (Sorry, it was way too dark for my pics to turn out.)

We wanted to try all two dozen or so irresistible-sounding tapas. The first plate on our table was lamb and duck prosciutto dumplings ($7). Not much to look at, but it was hot, crispy and punctuated with bits of salty duck cured in Chinese rice wine.

There are several ceviches to choose from — a nod to chef Tom Thai’s wizardry with sushi and fresh fish. The sea bream ceviche ($14) is amazing, raw fish marinated in yuzu juice (a sour Japanese fruit) and fragrant shiso leaf.

The fresh spring rolls ($7) packed with rice noodles, grilled portobello mushroom, powdered chipotle, fresh vine leaf and herbs, wrapped in rice paper satisfied Chinta’s recovering vegetarian taste buds, but won over even my meat-loving tendencies. I even didn’t mind the grilled tofu and vegetable plate ($7) drizzled with tangy yuzu-ponzu sauce.

But then the roast duck breast ($1 arrived and Chinta was enchanted with the moist tender meat with port sauce infused with sweet umeboshi (Japanese pickled plums). I hope Foxley keeps the grilled rib eye steak ($20) with chimichurri and baby arugula on its menu all the time. Served sliced rare, the steak melted in my mouth with the tantalizing tangy garlicky cilantro sauce.

Of note, Foxley sets out chopsticks and no cutlery on the tables. Service was friendly and precise and we never felt rushed despite the steady stream of people waiting for tables. That will likely multiply now that enRoute magazine has named Foxley one of Canada’s top 10 best new restaurants.

Tomi-Kro, 1214 Queen St. East, Toronto, (416) 463-6677. Open for dinner at 6 p.m. Closed Sundays.
Foxley Bistro, 207 Ossington Ave., Toronto, (416) 534-8520. Open for dinner 6-11 p.m. Closed Sundays. No reservations taken.

 

TORONTO: Great expectations

I’m not sure why I first wanted to try Thuet. It might have been an intriguing review or an episode of Opening Soon. The bistro is named after chef Marc Thuet, who hails from Alsace, France and has a bit of a bad-boy reputation. He smokes like a chimney and swears like a sailor, but he knows classic French cooking.

I’ve made reservations for Thuet twice on two separate trips to Toronto, but somehow had to cancel each time. It became an obsession.

The build-up was so great that I was already satisfied with simply walking into Thuet for Sunday brunch last month. There was a lineup at opening 11 a.m. on the dot of people with reservations. The dining room is classic banquette, dark-wood and white linens but the bank of big windows saves it from being gloomy.

This is not somewhere I could imagine popping into for a quick cup of joe. Thuet’s Sunday brunch is rich and indulgent. More like dinner. With eggs.

We started with steak tartare ($18), raw hand-chopped tenderloin and striploin with toast, topped with a pretty cracked-open raw quail’s egg. Mixed with minced gherkins and sprinkled with chives, I liked the fresh chunkiness of the tartare but found it a tad too mild in flavour.

Kevin had his day’s calories and more on a plate. Poached eggs, and two huge pieces of boudin noir and andouille sausage ($16) on top of rösti potatoes with a piece of thick bread. The house-made blood sausage was well, meaty and the andouille spicier but both were dense. It’s one of those dishes that puts hair on your chest.

Thuet’s deft way with meats comes honestly. Alsace borders Germany and takes that country’s rustic tradition of sausages and smoked meats. I read an article that Thuet spent one bloody afternoon perfecting the boudin noir before adding it to his menu.

My Eggs Benedict and Eggs Norwegian ($15) combo came on a wonderful flaky petit croissant, one with delicious ham and the other with smoked salmon. The hollandaise was smooth buttery heaven. My plate came with a green salad which should balance out the sauce, right?

Gigi went totally indulgent and ordered the scrambled eggs with lobster ($28). To the eye, it was disappointingly small. Even though the lobster was succulent and the eggs delicious, that price point was screaming for more to be delivered on the plate.

Mom’s order was my favourite. Eggs Meurette ($14), poached in red wine sauce, mushrooms and double-smoked bacon scored on all levels. It makes for an unattractive photo, but this was what I had pictured Thuet to be. Very down-to-earth and very French. The sauce concentrated with the wine and bacon was glorious.

Perhaps I was anticipating this visit a little too much. We left with mixed feelings. Service was professional, but hardly warm. The food was excellently executed but not magnificent.

Don’t get me wrong, I enjoyed dining at Thuet, but there was just something missing to make it entirely memorable. I’d like to return for one of its famed multi-course set menu dinners and see how that goes, but maybe with less expectation next time.

Thuet, 609 King St. West, Toronto, (416) 603-2777. Sunday brunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
Brunch menu and other info here.

 

TORONTO: Dumpling dinner

After a weekend of indulgent eating, I just wanted some simple comfort food, so Kevin and Gigi took me to a little family-run place called Yu Shan Dumpling Cuisine, named after one of the highest mountains in Taiwan.

The menu is short and not fussy. The first 10 items are the house specialties, steamed or pan-fried. We get the pan-fried pork and vegetable, as well as the pork and chive dumplings ($5.99 for 8).

The skin is the perfect combination of chewy from being fresh and homemade, and crunchy from the pan-frying. The filling is delicious. There’s soy sauce, red vinegar and garlic chili sauce on the table so I can choose my own ratio of condiments.

We wanted to try more than dumplings, and the beef stew with noodles ($6.45) did not disappoint. Full of huge chunks of tender brisket and bok choy, the broth was slightly spicy making it a level of slurp-worthy on par with Taiwan’s best street stands.

The green onion cake ($2.45) is a giant swirl of yumminess. It’s crispy, not oily, and we gobble it up fast. Kevin says the swirl is a tell-tale sign that the cake is freshly made, and not from frozen.

The spicy salted cuttlefish ($7.95) was also very good, again not overly oily even though it was deep fried.

In addition to the great food, Yu Shan distinguishes itself from other Asian restaurants by offering beer on tap and a sizable patio.

Yu Shan Dumpling Cuisine, 771 Dundas St. West, Toronto, (416) 869-0606. Menu here.

 

HOCKLEY VALLEY: B&B breakfast

This is one of the fine breakfasts served at the Stream Bed & Breakfast in Hockley Valley, Ontario: baked French toast, bacon, fresh fruit, yogurt, and coffee. That was just the first day. The second morning we had amazing homemade quiches and muffins baked that morning with jam in the middle.

The Stream has the best of what I picture B&Bs to be. The gorgeous property was built by owner John, and you get a very warm welcome from his wife Kersty and manager Will.

Two of the bedrooms have a view of a small waterfall and there’s a tree growing through the sunny living room. There’s a dartboard and tons of board games, as well as lots of movies in case you feel like curling up in front of the gigantic fireplace.

The hot tub on the patio has a stunning view of the stars in that dark stillness you can’t find in the city.

We stayed at the Stream because of a wedding but many people come to this part of the world for the fall colours and to hike the Bruce Trail.

The Stream B&B, 307162 Hockley Road (RR#1), Orangeville, Ontario, (519) 941-3392. More info and pictures here and here. Hockley Valley is about 45 minutes drive north of Toronto.

 

CALEDON: ‘It’s just over that hill’

Jan and I used to live in an old house in Toronto with the occasional mouse. Chris used to live with Grant in an old house in Toronto 500 paces away from us with a battle cat. Chris and Jan got married. Now, Grant is getting married. Got that?

Doesn’t matter. What I’m trying to say is this weekend saw a reunion of old friends to celebrate a new union. But to get there, we had to drive about an hour north of Toronto. Chris and Jan graciously picked me up from the airport and we were on our way.

We passed the adorable Caledon Inn. Then several minutes later realized we were all hungry. We swung the car around, and after several “I swear, it’s just over that hill,” pulled into the parking lot.

Built in the 1800s, the farmhouse was used as an inn for travellers. Now it’s a restaurant, banquet hall and a pub.

The James McCarty Pub oozes old-fashioned charm from the overgrown sign, down the stairs to the stone basement, to the TVs tuned to a golf channel.

Even more notable, the blackboard listed risotto osso bucco as the special of the day! It was tempting but we couldn’t spoil our appetites for the rehearsal dinner, so we settled on a light lunch.

I got the soup of the day ($2.99) which I’ve now lost my notes for but I think it was a homemade lentil, smoked ham type of broth. Jan and I both ordered the bruschetta ($6). It came with four thick slices of garlic-rubbed toast and I’m willing to bet tomatoes from a nearby garden. Very simple and very good.

Chris’ chicken club looked great, with real thick chicken breast and bacon and homemade fries with a roasted red pepper aioli dip.

This pub was great. Cozy with a handful of tables and a compact, confident menu. I wish we had time to stay for a few pints but we had more things to do, and people to see. Make sure you drop by if you’re roaring down the road. It’s just over that hill.

The James McCarty Pub/Caledon Inn, 16626 Airport Rd., Caledon, Ontario, (905) 584-0033. More info here.

 

TORONTO: Hungry for Cuban

I’ll say it up front. I didn’t love my experience at Julie’s Cuban Restaurant BUT it wasn’t them, it was us. Julie’s is a breezy, romantic place to linger and graze. We were starving and in the mood to wolf things down. So really, it was bad timing and not a reflection of Julie’s.

The restaurant is in a cute Victorian house with a cute little patio on a quiet residential street. I’m kicking myself for forgetting to take a photo of the outside.

The menu is mostly tapas with a handful of main plates. We got several tapas to taste including:

• tortilla chips with fresh guacamole ($7.50)
• sweet plantains with picadillo, a kind of ground beef ($7.75)
• camarones al ajillo: shrimp, white wine, in garlic butter ($7.25)
• chorizos: spicy Spanish sausages in red wine ($6.95).

The ceviche ($8.95) was really really good, fresh white fish marinated in lime juice and herbs with diced peppers, onions and corn.

My favourite was the frituras de maís ($6.95), peppery corn fritters and sour cream. Hot and crunchy on the outside, sweet and soft inside.

The ropa vieja ($16.95) was our only main plate. It’s shredded beef in a tomato sauce with red and green peppers, garlic, served with rice and ripe plantains. The photo doesn’t do it justice because it was delicious.

We also ordered a litre of sangria ($32.50), which was disappointingly bland. A mojito was deemed “not bad.”

We left hungry, but again it’s not fair to Julie’s. We could’ve eaten a whole roasted pig that night and probably still would’ve been munchy. I whole-heartedly recommend this place for a great date or a quiet night with friends who don’t have ridiculous appetites.

Julie’s Cuban Restaurant, 202 Dovercourt Rd., Toronto, (416) 532-7397. Reservations recommended. Open Tues-Sun, 5:30 pm to closing. Closed Mondays. Menu here.