Bison Mountain Bistro, Banff

I’ve never spent so much time in a restaurant bathroom before, and I mean that in a good way. The toilets in Banff’s Bison Courtyard sense, ahem, your presence on the seat, activating a foam that slowly flushes and pulls waste down into a composting tank.

I was fascinated by the system, which is thoughtfully explained on a sheet taped to the bathroom door.

Bison Mountain Bistro, BanffSo what does this have to do with food and eating? Well, the toilets are a small part of the sustainable ethos held by the owners, residents, and businesses of the Bison Courtyard, including the Bison Mountain Bistro. The complex uses 70 per cent less energy than standard buildings in Banff.

It’s a heartening story of how green can prevail. A local developer bought the Crag Cabin that was built in 1890 with plans to restore it, and grander plans to turn it into a sustainable living community.

They rejected chain restaurants with money to burn for the second-floor space, in favour of a husband-wife team with a vision for “Rocky Mountain comfort food.”

We got a perfect, sunny spring Sunday for the always stunning drive into the mountains to celebrate JJ’s birthday with a brunch at the Bison Mountain Bistro.

Bison Mountain Bistro, Banff

The menu screamed local and fresh, with an assortment of benedicts, bison burgers and pizzas from the wood-burning oven.

Three out of eight of us got the duck confit eggs benedict ($16) with fresh goat cheese, wild mushrooms, preserved lemon zest and hollandaise. This is the rough transcript of what was going through my head: “Mmm! Duck confit! Whoa! Goat cheese. Yum! Wild mushrooms!”

All the benedicts come on a cheese and herb biscuit with roasted potatoes and a hothouse green salad.

Bison Mountain Bistro, Banff

Jason opted for the French toast ($14) stuffed with Sylvan Star gouda and double-smoked bacon, topped with wild blueberry sauce and matchstick apple pieces.

The mountain breakfast ($12) was a hearty three eggs, double-smoked bacon, roasted tomatoes and potatoes and grilled toast. (Thanks to JJ for voluntarily burning his hands while holding the hot plate up for my photo.)

The bacon was a real hit, especially with three-year-old Sloane happily munching on a fistful of it.

Bison Mountain Bistro, BanffMartin got a huge plate of wild mushroom tagliatelle with fresh goat cheese, leeks, herbs, peas and white truffle oil. It was so good that it prompted him to get a glass of red wine too. Now, that’s a real brunch.

There’s a general store on the ground floor, featuring gourmet baguettes, fine cheeses and specialty meats, if you don’t have time to sit down for a meal. (The co-owner used to be a partner in Calgary’s Janice Beaton Fine Cheese.)

We picked up a jar of the bistro’s amazing smoked tomato ketchup ($8.95), which I’ve pretty much eaten for the past five days straight (not by itself!).

By the way, the bistro’s patio on the second floor is no doubt the best place to take in the mountains and great food. And don’t forget to check out those bathrooms.

Bison Mountain Bistro & General Store, 211 Bear St., Banff, Alberta, (403) 762-5550. Click for website here.