Smuggler’s Inn probably hasn’t changed in 30 years nor does it have to. It’s dark like a dungeon and decorated like well, a smuggler’s lair.

We sat near the giant fireplace at a heavy wood table with heavy high-backed throne chairs and watched the female bartenders in starched white shirts and scarves tied nattily at the neck mix up tasty Caesars and Shirley Temples.

Smuggler's Inn, CalgaryIt was Jason’s birthday and he loves escargots so that’s what we started with ($8.95), baked in garlic butter and havarti with a giant slice of garlic bread. It was good — I’m not sure how anyone could mess up this dish.

The all-you-can-eat soup and salad bar at Smuggler’s Inn is pretty standard but thankfully fresh and tidy. I was happy to find a delicious cucumber-wasabi dressing among the Thousand Island and ranch.

There are three soups, the most famous of which is the steak soup. It was thick like a chowder and salty as hell but I couldn’t stop spooning it into my mouth. Really, I was drinking gravy. But it was acceptable because it wasn’t gravy, it was steak soup.

Smuggler's Inn, Calgary

Prime rib is the main attraction here. We both got the Smuggler’s cut ($25.95) which we guessed is about 16 oz. There’s a reason Smuggler’s has been in business so long. The prime rib was nice and thick, good and moist, with a sauce that was a cross between au jus and gravy.

Our waiter, who was quite nice, brought the old-school tray of condiments for our baked potatoes and also indulged me in the horseradish: “More please. A little more. Mmm. OK, thanks.”

Lots of families were dining at Smuggler’s Inn and lots of kids with combed-down hair and shiny dress shoes were having much fun running back and forth perusing the salad bar. It reminds me of the steakhouses my parents took us to on special occasions.

Smuggler’s Inn is not a place for surprises or experiments, but it is a good pick if you want decent, no-fuss prime rib and a place to drink gravy, er steak soup.

Smuggler’s Inn, 6920 Macleod Trail South, Calgary, (403) 253-5355. Menus here.
Open Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Sunday brunch 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m., Sunday dinner 4:30-10 p.m.