EDMONTON: Hangin’ on the back bacon

It’s hard for me to resist a place as boldly named as Bacon. It’s a friendly neighbourhood restaurant nestled in Highlands in Edmonton. I finally got a chance to try it while catching up with some girlfriends.

Many people told me Bacon is simliar to Culina in its casual vibe and fresh local food, so I was excited. I also recognized the chef in Bacon’s kitchen as a regular at the bar during Culina’s Saturday brunch. A good sign.

However, it was one of the hottest days of the summer and Bacon is not air-conditioned. The kitchen opens right up into the dining area so it was stifling. My quick glance at the room took in a bright teal wall with folk tapestry patterns. Luckily, Bacon has a patio - which the hostess cheerfully introduced as the “back bacon.”

Whew. Now we could start eating. We started with the perogy plate ($8), cheese and potato dumplings made by local babas. Looks like some of the proceeds go to the St. Michael’s Healthcare Group. Bacon adds a refreshing twist by topping it with an awesome bacon gremolata.

I opted for the special of the day, tandoori chicken thighs with coconut curry lentils and green papaya salad. The chicken was delicious but I’d like to see the portion upped a little, even with the side of whole wheat chapatis.

Katherine got the Prairie paella ($18), a hefty bowl of free-range chicken, andouille sausage, green beans, chickpeas and wild mushrooms with brown rice and Spanish saffron. She gave it a thumbs up, calling it “comfort food on a hot day.” (That’s her engagement ring she insisted on adding to the perogy picture.)

Steph, a former vegetarian, ordered the Alberta bison burger ($15) with gusto. I eyed it jealously when it came. A huge patty cooked medium-rare with molasses butter, remoulade, onion and Havarti on a whole wheat bun.

Steph’s ruling: “I liked it, but it made me sweat.” (She wanted to get in on the hand model action too. That’s her with the bottle of wine.)

Catherine got the Indian bazaar bowl ($15). I lost my notes for that one but I remember both a tomato and cream curry sauce on brown rice. She said she liked the curry because it was not too spicy. Catherine also had a cool drink, ginger beer with cranberry juice.

The rest of us split a bottle of 2006 Enrique Foster Malbec Ique from Argentina. Young and fruity, like the summer evening.

The entire back of the Bacon’s menu is a lengthy source list of its local ingredients, such as “free range eggs, red potatoes and herbs from Mary Ellen and Andreas at Greens, Eggs and Ham.” It’s a nice touch.

I don’t know what category Bacon fits into with its Ukrainian, ethnic, fusion, natural food etc. I’ll admit I was leery of the healthy aspects of the menu, flax this and brown rice that, but Bacon was more than tasty enough to lure me back.

Bacon, 6509-112 Ave., Edmonton, Alberta, (780) 477-2422. Menu here.
Open Tues-Sun, 10 a.m.-11 p.m., Sunday brunch 10 a.m.-3 p.m., closed Mondays.