February 9, 2006
RICHMOND: Zen of Chinese feasting
Posted by are you gonna eat that? under Eating / Food, Restaurants, Vancouver | Tags: Chinese, Chinese New Year, dinner |
Like any holiday, food is the focus of Chinese New Year. And it’s all about the fortune.
A whole fish or chicken to signal abundance.
Sticky glutinous rice to resemble a treasure of pearls — if you squint maybe.
A fungusy mass of black moss seaweed because its Chinese name sounds like prosperity. Too bad prosperity doesn’t taste like fried chicken.
This year’s traditional New Year’s dinner had a twist since we had it at Zen Fine Chinese Cuisine. The Vancouver Sun named it one of the best new restaurants in 2004.
I wish chef-owner-genius Sam Lau was around when I was growing up in Vancouver, a spoiled kid whining about “boring” Chinese food. Zen is not fusion. Lau cooks zingy, authentic Chinese dishes, presented in a Western style.
Thinly sliced duck breast, consomme with gingko nuts, garlic lobster, smoked Alaskan cod, braised Chinese mushrooms over greens, whole chicken smoked with red bean curd… None of the more than a dozen dishes disappointed.
Dessert was simple dragonfruit, delicately sweet egg white custard — and a hunk of leen goh or “new year’s jelly.”
This is a great place even when it’s not Chinese New Year. There are no chipped teacups, sticky plastic menus or surly waiters here. The dining room is modern and people speak softly.
The only warning is the unique ordering system. You have a choice of a few prix fixe tasting menus, but everyone at the table must order the same one. Depending on what you pick, 6 courses can run from $55 to $188 per person.
Try the stuffed whelk with curried seafood, one of my favourites.
Reservations strongly recommended.
March 2008 UPDATE: Zen finally has a website here.
Zen Fine Chinese Cuisine, 2nd floor, 8580 Alexandra Rd., Richmond, B.C., Canada (604) 233-0077. Dinner 5:30-11 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays.
December 21, 2007 at 7:45 am
Hi there,
Did you feel like Zen was overpriced traditional flavours with nicer plating? Or was the food actually that good or that different? Did you feel like it was worth the $50/ person (at least) price tag, which at a traditional Chinese restaurant would get you the full banquet deal (if not then at least 80% of it)? i.e. full table banquet with lobster, fish, shrimp, scallops for $400… works out to but around $40 - $50 (8 - 10 people).
Thanks,
Swan
December 21, 2007 at 9:21 am
If I wanted a traditional Chinese banquet, then I wouldn’t go to Zen but I don’t think it’s fair to compare them.
Zen isn’t trying to be a traditional Chinese restaurant. For me, part of the experience is sitting in a tranquil, thoughtfully decorated place with great service as opposed to a noisy restaurant with kids running around the fish tanks, plastic tablecloths and waiters that throw the teapot down. There are times for that for sure - big groups, my boisterous family etc - but I go to Zen when I want Chinese food with a twist, done well in an environment that may factor into the higher cost.
March 9, 2008 at 6:45 am
I read your comments about the restaurant,”Zen Fine Chinese Cuisine” with great interest. I think Chef Lau more than paid his dues and thus should be rewarded for his diligence.
I was terribly saddened to read of his financial struggles but even more saddened to read of the haggling on the part of the customers to get the price down for food that is so praiseworthy!
Outrageous!!!
Frankly, I think it would be worth a trip from the east coast, where I reside, to Vancouver just for the privilege of eating at Chef Lau’s restaurant.
How is the restaurant faring these days?
March 10, 2008 at 12:36 pm
Cher128: Unfortunately, part of Zen’s challenge is to break out of the diners’ mentality that Chinese food is only cheap and thus, bargain-able.
My mom (who is good friends with the chef’s sister) says business has picked up considerably of late with the New York Times accolades, so hopefully that will ease some of the business worries.
March 11, 2008 at 5:56 pm
i LIKE A LOT OF OTHER PEOPLE FELT SYMPATHY FOR THE OWNER OF THIS RESTERAUNT AND DECIDE TO TRY IT OUT ESPECIALLY FOR THE PRICE AS i WENT TO HIS WB SITE. i MADE RESERAVATIONS ON MAR 7 2008 FOR THE NEXT DAY AND JUST ASKED IF THE 36 DOLLAR MENU WAS STILL AVAILABE AND SHE ASSURED ME IT WAS AND SO I MADE A RESERVATION FOR 5:30. UPON ARRIVING I SEE THAT THERE IS 3 PEOPLE AT THE FRONT COUNTER, THE ARTICLE INDICATES ONLY HIM AND HIS WIFE. THE HEAD PERSON GREETS ME IN A RATHER RUDE FASHION. I TELL HER I HAVE RESERVATIONS AND SHE ASK MY NAME ,AND TELLS ME THERE ARE NO RESERVATIONS FOR ME AND ASKS ME TO LEAVE” I TELL HER IT IS A SPECIAL OCASSION AND THAT I DID MAKE RESERVATIONS BUT SHE SAYS NO. IT IS EARY AND I THOUGHT IF THEY COULD ACCOMODATE ME IT WOULD BE ARIGHT AS THEY DID NOT PUT MY RESERVATIONS IN,BUT SHE SAID NO LEAVE. THIS WAS NOT AN ASIA WHO MIGHT HAVE HAD DIFFICULTY WITH THE LANGUAGE. UPON LEAVING I PICK UP THE MENU AND DID NOT SEE THE 36 DOLLAR MENU AS REPORTED IN THE PAPER.I AM DISAPOINTED IN THERE ????? ONE DAY SUCCESS AND WILL NOT RECCOMEND AS I WAS LOOKING FOWARD TO EATING AT A FINE CUISENE RESTAURANT WITH OUT ALL THE GREASE AND BATTER.
March 11, 2008 at 7:28 pm
Re: L BUXTON
You should be ashamed of yourself. There is no website for Zen Fine Cuisine so that throws your entire post and especially your complaint into question. If you did make a reservation, it was probably for Zen Sushi, which does have a website.
March 11, 2008 at 8:41 pm
No I do not feel ashamed T Louie ,I was there not you ,and yes you are right not “his wb” but what describes his restaurant. My comment does mention the $36 dollar menu which may be unique for this type of “restaurant” and no I was not mistaken as to the restaurant as I confirmed reservations prior to going there. And i do have the menu which I left with on Mar 8 and no $36 dollar menu.What you are confused with is the way I was treated and how I was told to leave. I was told prices start at 49.80. Maybe they tought I was going to bargain as the article indicates. It may have good food but reception and service is prime not secondary. have a good day
March 11, 2008 at 9:58 pm
So Valerie how do you respone to your 4-5 day success.
March 11, 2008 at 10:01 pm
L Buxton: I’m not sure who your message to “Valerie” is for… My food blog is my own personal hobby and not related to any of the restaurants I write about, so if you’re looking for someone from Zen, I suggest you call or email them directly. Thanks.
March 16, 2008 at 5:00 pm
Tradition chinese food with a twist(taster meun only),not the communal dinnig as many chinse are used to.No doubt the food is excellent here,but maybe Chef Lau is targeting the wrong customers in a wrong location now.A west side,broadway or downtown Vancouver locales would be more suitable(of course,with a killer rental!).Hopefully,Zen will make it finacially,with the all good press(about food :))it is getting now.
May 12, 2008 at 12:51 pm
This, Lainey, is ridiculous. I have a revelation by eating at Zen, only to find out that you dropped by TWO YEARS EARLIER!